060917 Millstone

Overview - I dunno, these people come up to the Peak, get their fill of Limestone on the Saturday, and then sneak off to the least grit-like grit crag I know - where they all get constantly mauled by the cracks! Ah well, another afternoon playing on Technical Master and other aretes. This time, however, I had to restrain myself from just continuing up Edge Lane, as all the soloing had really put me in the mood for it. Ah well, I'll go and try to repeat Snivling instead!

Embankment 1 (2* VS 4c):

Solo - First pitch only, as it was the warm-up. Interesting moves left, and an upper section that requires a rope, but graded correctly, and deserves the stars from the varied climbing.

Embankment 4 (2* E1 5b):

Seconded Paul - I remember leading this "back in the day", and it looked like Paul had the same experience I did - sitting on the gear almost every move! I was quite pleased making it to the top cleanly (via a dyno that scared Paul!), as I finally felt like I'd climbed it in the style intended, using finger-locks all the way.

The Snivelling Shit (2* E5 6a):

On abseil - Well, there was someone practicing the moves when I arrived, so I had to have a go, didn't I? And yet again, I fell off the same move, mantelling onto the glassy shelf. The whole thing felt almost like an onsight, but with exact knowledge of the line (i.e. not knowing the moves). Made the whole thing clean second time. Still a cracking route, deserving utter respect and the stars.

Great Slab (Millstone) (2* HS 4b):

On abseil - A guy had just swapped over with his belayer for the crux of Lorica, but had left all his gear on the ground with the original leader! Just another quick up and down of the slab I know so well...

Technical Baiter (1* V1 5b / font 5+):

Bouldered - I think I did this once up, but four times down, as it's the obvious decent off TM... Just know when to jump off. BTW "Hick Up, Pick Up" has to be the silliest name for the hardest boulder problem ever!

Technical Master (3* V4 6b / font 6b):

Bouldered - It takes about half an hour of attempts to remember how to do this each time, and I swear I do it in fewer moves each time. The one-handed version could go the next time I make it to Millstone.

Little lotto arete (V2 5c):

Bouldered - The variations possible on this and the wall right can keep you occupied for a while... The right side, with(/out) pocket, then Technical Master, then the left side should do as a warm-up for Edge Lane!